Sunday 6 October 2019

A Dog's Life

Fairly or unfairly, many nationalities have acquired some fortunate or unfortunate reputations. 

The Germans love slow beer, fast cars and even faster sex.  The latter evidently also appeals to some foreign women who have been known to quite literally drag a German into a cupboard for a quick ravish; exchanging bodily fluids faster than most of us could exchange business cards.

Previously unseeded Russian model Angela Ermakova beat Boris Becker game, set and match plus child maintenance, custody and a personal sporting fortune of US$ 25m in a frenzied match lasting just 5 seconds
 - played in a broom cupboard no less.

https://www.ibtimes.co.uk/boris-beckers-five-second-sex-cupboard-has-cost-him-his-fortune-1627401


https://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/worldnews/europe/germany/1445893/Becker-tells-of-his-night-of-torment-tears-and-five-second-sex-in-a-broom-cupboard.html



The Swedish, on the other hand, are smoking hot. 

Old Swedes: ABBA, hotter than ever with 380 million record sales and two successful Mama Mia musicals spanning a musical career which started in 1974 

New Swede: Elin Nordegren, formerly Mrs Tiger Woods;
settled for a mere US$20m per year of their 5 year marriage 

- while also proving herself proficient with a golf club when angered

Meanwhile an obsession with the weather has long been as indelibly British as the old, blue passports used to be. Many non-white British ruefully observe that the only way they can prove their Britishness when travelling abroad, is by ceaselessly wittering on about "... what a fine day it turned out to be ..." in whichever country they are visiting.  Such conversation can seem a little misplaced, for example, during the total lack of daylight in the depths of the Finnish winter, but this only serves to further reinforce the eccentric British identity. 





Despite leading the world in fields as diverse as home electronics, shipbuilding and nuclear reactors, most outsiders squeezed to comment on Korea will invariably reference eating dog meat. Mike Huckabee, the father of the routinely routed and publicly pilloried Whitehouse press secretary Sarah Huckabee, certainly didn't disguise his southern baptist sensitivities when declaring;


"I trust Bernie Sanders with my tax dollars like I trust a North Korean chef with my Labrador!"

Huckabee's political aspirations then ejaculated prematurely with clumsy justifications of his jokes such as;

"People manufacture their offenses. 
So even if there's nothing to be offended about, 
they can pretend that they're offended,
so that they can demand an apology, demand a retraction." 


https://www.buzzfeednews.com/article/andrewkaczynski/huckabee-my-north-korea-dog-eating-joke-was-factual-obama-ad


Meanwhile, an ocean apart in distance, culture and humour, some Koreans are tiring of the dog-meat-eating stereotype; asking why the same practices, found more widely in China, India and South East Asia do not attract as much media attention as they do in Korea.

https://zenkimchi.com/commentary/2018-koreans-eating-dog-meat-meme-racist/

https://www.ranker.com/list/cultures-that-eat-dogs/laura-allan

Always remembering of course that back in Europe, the rationing of food after World War 2 left many people with no choice but to eat tabby and ginger "Roof Rabbits", as well as conventional floppy-eared bunnies, due to the dire shortage of meat which was available.

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cat_meat


This summer Kim Basinger attended a rally in Seoul calling for an end to the eating of dog meat in Korea, highlighting the juxtaposition that dogs are increasingly popular companion pets throughout the country.


The actress Kim Basinger in Seoul in July 2019
- carrying a mock dog carcass to raise awareness about dog cruelty
https://www.google.com/amp/s/amp.scmp.com/news/asia/east-asia/article/3018374/us-actress-kim-basinger-leads-protests-dog-meat-day-south-korea


Aside from the noble cause and the rare glimpse of celebrity, the event was also notable for the counter-demonstration held across the road where people defiantly exercised their right to eat dog meat by deliberately sitting down to eat generous portions of steamed mutt - with kimchi, naturally.


Many studies suggest that these days it is primarily Korea's old-timers who still have a taste for dog meat dishes.  Consumption is reportedly declining  by approx 20% - 30% each year with possibly as few as 20% of the population actually having eaten dog meat in the last year.  There are now estimated to be only ~300 dog meat restaurants remaining in Seoul with annual consumption across the country at less than a million dogs for a population of approx 50m people.  

However, some reports suggest a virtual renaissance in canine cuisine;

http://theseoultimes.com/ST/?url=/ST/db/read.php?idx=113

In reality the meat is tough, stringy, quite oily and not particularly tasty so youngsters have long since preferred almost anything but mutt. 


Boshintang: dog meat stew - not really embraced by the young generation

http://www.koreabiomed.com/news/articleView.html?idxno=257

In a country where the frequencies of dating, marriage and childbirth are reducing while the frequency of divorce (increasingly initiated by emasculated wives) is rising, dogs are indeed increasingly important as companion animals for many single people.

With over 90% of Koreans living in cities, many in high rise apartments of less than 30m2, small breeds such as Pomeranians weighing typically 4kg are the most popular. 

https://www.google.com/amp/mengnews.joins.com/amparticle/3064715

https://www.japantimes.co.jp/news/2013/09/17/asia-pacific/social-issues-asia-pacific/after-decades-of-growth-south-korea-is-now-a-land-full-of-apartments/#.XY1X2VMRU0M


Dust Mutt: for apartments dwellers, 'toy' dogs weighing just 4 or 5 kg are ideal for
cleaning dust from places which are difficult to reach - like under the coffee table

 A few years ago it was not unusual to see young couples pushing pampered poodles in dog strollers as they proudly cruised the malls at the weekend. Today many malls no longer insist on the use of strollers, allowing dogs to be walked on a leash, not only through the communal mall areas but actually inside the individual shops.  


No strollers required; dogs can now be walked through malls and shops

Indeed most malls have no shortage of pet shops, groomers and pet cafes where owners can leave their dogs to socialise for a few hours while the owners enjoy a quiet lunch.


Although apartment dwellers tend towards small pooches, there are notable exceptions, including a good friend who survived the best part of 3 years in a 130m2 apartment with 2 dogs weighing 40 to 50 kg each. The small confines of the apartment were a poor substitute for the wide open spaces which the dogs were accustomed to in Texas, so they obviously looked forward to their daybreak walks with unrestrained enthusiasm.  In his apartment block, many early mornings were punctuated by the blood-curdling shrieks of little old ladies who had been patiently waiting in front of the elevator, only to find themselves suddenly face-to-face with two panting, drooling, hell-hounds standing over a metre high, bursting from the opening doors. Reassurances that the dogs were daft, harmless and just wanted to play were ... unconvincing.


Sadly, for every dog being pampered, there are others barely eeking out a scared and miserable existence. 

https://www.huffingtonpost.co.uk/entry/rspca-cruelty-statistics-dogs-most-abused-pet-uk_uk_56f1544be4b0fbd4fe08a272


One Sunday under the Mapo bridge I stopped to admire a beautifully groomed pedigree dog whose size seriously rivaled that of a small horse. Normally such a huge and powerful dog would have the confidence to walk untroubled through the tides of people moving calmly around him. Instead this dog was shy, nervous, walking close to his owner's legs and constantly looking up to his owner's face for reassurance. He was essentially a nervous wreck. The owner explained that the 83kg dog was now mostly rehabilitated, having been found 2 years earlier weighing a mere 13kg; chained, beaten, tortured, bald, diseased, unfed and crying in fear of every human who approached him. It was impossible to know how many years he had been kept captive in these conditions. Restoring his physical health had taken a long time; restoring his mental health would take much longer.


Sad as it was, I dismissed this as a rare case of extreme cruelty by an owner with a mental, social or criminal profile whose sadistic abuse of a captive victim somehow made him feel better about himself. However cruelty is certainly not limited to the underprivileged.  Two years later in an affluent subdivision of EunPyeong-gu, where successful businessmen commission architects to design their bespoke villas in the foothills of Bukhansan National Park, I walked past a 4 month old puppy, whining and shivering in heavily falling snow.  It was 9pm in the evening, the temperature had already dropped below -8°C and being the end of February, it was pitch-black dark with a bitterly cold wind. The puppy was patiently waiting outside the front door of a house while his humans ate, warm and cosy, in front of the TV.  The dog kennel they provided was already too small for the puppy and in any case the kennel door was closed, so it was impossible for the puppy to get inside for shelter.

When I asked my friend about this, he was unconcerned, explaining that Jindo dogs are famous for their tolerance of harsh conditions; they are bred and trained from an early age to endure discomfort and hardship - it builds strong senses of duty and loyalty which are important for guarding both the property and owners against intruders. However, this was no hardy breed of Jindo dog it was simply an unfortunate Golden Retriever puppy, bought by wealthy parents as a quick-fix-gift to satisfy their spoilt, sofa-slug son at Christmas.  Obviously nobody could be bothered to house-train the puppy so when they tired of him messing in the house they simply put him outside in a steel cage the size of a small coffee table and gave him bones twice a week - out of sight, out of mind. 


Beautiful bespoke family home with unwanted Christmas gift
- perpetually bored and ignored Golden Retriever 

In the 4 months which followed the puppy grew to completely fill his cage; he was never walked, played with, washed or groomed. When the family left the house or came home, the parents and the kid walked past the puppy like he was not even there. In the first few months, the puppy ran enthusiastically along the garden fence to greet passers-by; trying anything to establish some form of communication with someone. However after a few months the family did not like others befriending the dog so they locked him permanently in his cage.

"Better humans wanted - please apply"

On the rare occasions the cage was opened, the puppy walked lethargically, with head hung low between his shoulders, tail limp, eyes down. He was not even a year old but he had lost interest in everything. He was filthy outside and dead inside.  Ultimately, cruelty by neglect is little better than cruelty by abuse.  By June, before he could celebrate his first birthday, the puppy had disappeared altogether from the family home, not to be seen again.  

https://www.hsi.org/issues/dog-meat-trade/

Growing public awareness is gradually inspiring volunteer groups to organise support for a lucky minority of unwanted mutts.  Seoul's Itaewon has long been famous with foreigners for it's late night bars and early morning brawls.  Now on Sunday mornings, while some nurse their hangovers, others are nursing, grooming and pampering unwanted dogs in makeshift yellow tents erected on the pavement at the west end of Itaewon's main drag.   

Second chances : new homes for a lucky few thanks to time given by volunteers in Itaewon
The tents are only set up for the day, staffed by a small number of youngsters, to allow the dogs out of their cages, to play with each other, enjoy some face time with passers-by, have their chins tickled, their tummies rubbed, their ears fondled.  Most people stop for a few minutes to take a few photos before eventually moving on but importantly this gives the dogs the chance to meet caring humans in a safe environment and to enjoy some free hugs, perhaps some fleeting affection and just maybe it gives them a shot at finding a new home. 











Saturday 9 March 2019

Out And About In Hong Kong

Bob Dylan: more relevant than ever to politicians on both sides of The Pond;
"Don't criticise what you can't understand"

Last August, one of the most cocky spring chickens of the 1960s confidently ambled onto a modest stage perched in the cavernous rafters of Hong Kong's vast Convention & Exhibition Centre. Now a venerated old bird, at the rude old age of 77 a comfortably craggy Bob Dylan took centre stage to crow out, once again, that amongst many other certainties in life, we are all "...gonna have to serve somebody". In perhaps no other city in the world is this truth more seamlessly woven through the daily lives of its inhabitants. Endless pages have been written about old Hong Kong; from the opium wars to the Kowloon Walled City. Perhaps more has been written about modern Hong Kong; the lavish skyscrapers by Sir Norman Frosty or the 'new' Chek Lap Kok airport built in the sea. However for a huge number of people in Hong Kong, life is all about service. 

https://www.scmp.com/news/hong-kong/article/1191748/kowloon-walled-city-life-city-darkness


Spielbergian skies over Hong Kong Island's famous northern waterfront 
- transformed by prestige architects


Anyone in primary school in the 70s will remember most of their toys were stamped with the familiar words 'Made in Hong Kong'. However by the early 80s, China's social reforms encouraged most of HK's manufacturing to move to the mainland, together with much of its male workforce. 

While HK's departing industry was quickly replaced by service businesses such as finance and consulting, the departing male workers were quickly replaced by Hong Kongese women.  Then suddenly family households needed cooks, cleaners and nannies (Domestic Helpers, DH) at home.  This coincided neatly with the policy of the Philippines' wily president Marcos to export all of his problematic unemployed abroad. He was very successful and in the 20 years which followed, Indonesia, Thailand, Sri Lanka and Nepal also tried their luck with the same Marcos model. 


View from Hong Kong over Victoria Harbour to Kowloon.
Now a monument to finance and consulting.

In Korea in 2015 it was estimated that 2.5% of families employed a Domestic Helper (DH). These are almost exclusively Chinese-Koreans since immigration laws restrict such work to ethnic Koreans only. This is designed to avoid the (perceived negative) impact of foreign cultural contamination in Korean homes.  The policy not only runs contrary to foreign teachers being allowed to teach English to school children but also the fact that many parents consider an English-speaking nanny as a learning advantage for their children.  However, as the law stands, it is taken very seriously by Immigration, as Korean Air heiress Heather Cho found out in 2018.


Heather Cho, celebrated for commandeering a departing plane on the tarmac at JFK airport because she was served macadamia nuts without a silver tray, this time answering allegations that she circumvented immigration law by hiring Filipino Domestic Helpers as 'Korean Air trainees' 
https://coconuts.co/manila/news/korean-air-heiress-infamous-airplane-nut-rage-accused-hiring-filipino-domestic-workers-illegally/

http://m.koreaherald.com/view.php?ud=20180617000217#cb 

In a total Korean population of 50m people, estimates are that 30,000 to 80,000 people work as DHs, typically earning just under US$1,000 per month. 

By comparison, up to 33% of Hong Kongese families are estimated to hire DHs, amounting to 350,000 people or 5% of a total HK population of 7.5m. DHs are almost all female, split 50:50 Filipino:Indonesian, mostly in the age range 20 to 45 and typically earning US$500 per month.

In Hong Kong, DHs are legally obliged to live with their employers. Their day starts very early as they prepare breakfast for the family, get children washed and dressed for school and quite possibly deliver them to school also. The day is then filled with food shopping, cooking, washing, cleaning and then collecting children, feeding them, washing them and getting them to bed before the return of the parent(s). 

There is a lot to do so it is a long day, often finishing after 9pm, which explains why most DHs are not highly visible Monday to Saturday. Sunday however is the customary day off, when many DHs go to worship before collecting in the city's parks and open spaces to share food with friends, make video calls to the family back home and to fall asleep in the shade to the comforting background chatter of their native tongue.

Road closed for dancing in the street; a typical Sunday in Central in HK
Domestic Helpers set up impromptu food and dance parties in the city's open spaces.

Noodles and kick-boxing make for a relaxing afternoon

'Pretty maids all in a row';
Sunday in the park after worship; headscarved Indonesians to the left and Filipinas to the right.

While a foreigner in Korea still usually finds themselves the only non-Korean on the subway, in the supermarket or at the bar, in HK the ethnic mix could not be more complete. There are people from every corner of the world attracted by the combination of high salaries, low taxation and lenient requirements for work permits and residency. Of course in mid-summer this still feels like miserable compensation for the infernal heat and oppressive humidity. To adapt an old line from General Sheridan; "If I owned Hong Kong and Hell, I'd rent out Hong Kong and live in Hell." 

https://en.wikiquote.org/wiki/Philip_Sheridan

Permanent residency can be acquired after 7 years of living legally  in Hong Kong.  However, controversially, this excludes people working as Domestic Helpers.  Some have mounted legal challenges to this but so far these failed.

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vallejos_v_Commissioner_of_Registration

Although English serves to connect most people in HK, it is interesting to note that a common language does not in itself deliver real social integration.  On Sundays it is quite normal to see a group of Filipinas having an impromptu zumba under some trees while head-scarved Indonesians sit reading and chatting in a separate group nearby. Meanwhile two blocks away there will be English, Irish, Aussies and Yanks downing beers and following their own national sports in their separate home-styled bars.  This shows that social integration occurs between people with shared histories, experiences, values and beliefs; it requires much more than simply speaking a common language.  


Braving a summer squall in Taymar Park: an open air screening of The Rocky Horror Picture Show (1975) attracts people of all nationalities to come and get wet together

If there is any ethnic-unifying culture in Hong Kong then this is most visibly simply money.  The striking number of jewelry shops, even in the most bland malls and socially humble residential areas shows a pre-occupation with bling; see and be seen, get it and show it to everyone on My-Life-Is-Better-Than-Yours.com


A Lotus get-away car for the groom; cheap and tacky but unusual
(just like his boots and haircut) 

Anyone taking the popular, open-topped city tour bus ride will have seen The Pawn as they pass all the famous land marks of Hong Kong.  The building dates from 1881, was formerly a pawn shop and was since reinvented as an upmarket bar and restaurant.  Here you can take green tea on the balcony while peering down your nose at the great unwashed for just US$14; the same list price as the Guinness.  Bottles of spirits are priced at 5 times their respective duty free prices, which puts a bottle of champagne at about US$350.  At such places it is unremarkable to see a young couple, barely in their 20s, order a bottle of Moet, drink one glass each while waiting for friends and then leave the rest of the bottle as they move onto their next venue.  

The Pawn on Johnston Rd, Wanchai

Hong Kong's WanChai; a place where the high-life and low-life rub shoulders.
If you drop US$300,000 you can walk out with a McLaren on 20" wheels.
If you drop US$300 you can walk out with an hour's worth of intimate company on 3" heels.
Good quality rubber is essential for both options.

A six-decked yacht named 'Diamonds are Forever'
sits idle month after month in a marina overlooked by the Gold Coast Hotel

Proving that absurd advertising does not detract from its success.
The current must-have item for HK's male and female professionals alike
- chunky gent's watches by Omega, or at least, strikingly good imitations thereof.

As a social model, HK demonstrates how different cultures can live, drive and survive together without being assimilated into the culture of the host country. A healthy mutual respect, a live-and-let-live attitude and a common observance of the law can be enough.  This should reassure those Koreans who are increasingly panicked by the popular media about the rising numbers of foreigners in Korea and the potential erosion of Korean culture. 


Friday 15 February 2019

Just Say "Aaaggghhhh !"

Alien 1979: "In space, no one can hear you scream".
In any competition  involving teeth, Korea wins every time
This week Seoul was chosen as the South Korean city which will  bid jointly with North Korea for the Olympic Games of 2032.  

http://www.koreaherald.com/view.php?ud=20190211000920&ACE_SEARCH=1

It is hard to believe that 30 years have already passed since South Korea boldly hosted the summer Olympics of 1988. These games would go down in history as the event which proudly launched the Korean sport of Oral Hygiene (OH) into the global arena for the very first time. Viewers around the world sat speechless as the host nation carried away every gold, silver and bronze medal, effortlessly beating all foreign competition in every single OH event. 

First up was the eye-wateringly fast 15-Second Power-Brush Dash; ideal just before kissing and caressing or just after a secret cigarette. Then came the precision events such as the Single-handed Interdental Floss. These demonstrated skills patiently perfected over centuries into a near art form by Korean Buddhist Masters to remove their main diet of leafy greens from  between their rear molars. There were also an impresssive range of endurance events such as the Double-Handed Foam Marathon. This showed us for the first time how two beads of toothpaste can be whipped up into an entire mouthfull of foam, with all the uncompromising firmness of a Korean mattress, in just under 20 minutes. Of course the reasons for creating this foam still remain as opaque as, well, the foam itself really. In any case, with these unique and admittedly imaginative skills, South Korea instantly positioned itself at the cleaning edge of global Oral Hygiene. The rest of the world would have to brush up and catch up. 

From such unlikely beginnings, Korea's great Heroes of '88 were instantly immortalized as their as Oral Hygiene routines soon became ritual and are now observed in daily life with the same discipline one would expect of any finely-honed military unit. Official advice is to strictly follow the 3-3-3 concept, that is; to brush 3 times per day, for 3 minutes each time,  within 3 minutes of eating food. Yes. Seriously. Within 3 minutes of eating food.


https://journals.lww.com/md-journal/fulltext/2017/02170/Association_between_oral_health_behavior_and.62.aspx


Sharing is caring: brush together

Lunchtimes for office-dwellers are therefore characterised by fast and furious food around noon, then by a sharp sprint to the washroom armed with brushes, pastes and any number of the latest accessories. Of course the number of sinks are limited so an orderly queue is observed, with obvious deference to seniors who can slip in front of juniors any time, at their leisure. 

Guys in a hurry can at least use an additional evolutionary advantage to jump the queues; they can brush their teeth while standing at the urinals. Given a little practice with a well-disciplined Trouser Snake, one can urinate quite deftly while brushing one's teeth with one hand and posting on Facebook with the other hand. Those who eat a larger lunch take their brushes and mobiles into the cubicles to somehow combine their ablutions and social media updates at a more relaxed pace while seated. It is little wonder that recent studies showed 18 times more bacteria on the average smart phone than on the average toilet flush handle. 

http://time.com/4908654/cell-phone-bacteria/

None of this means that Oral Hygiene is in any way limited to mere tooth brushing. Frenzied brushing of the teeth in proscribed sets of horizontal, vertical and orbital motions, is merely  a cunning warm-up to flex the finger  muscles required for the more demanding tasks to follow. The first of these is the slow, methodical root-to-tip pressure-scrubbing of the top surface of the fully extended tongue. It amounts to scouring your most sensitive erogenous zone in front of the mirror in public. 



Tongue-scrubbing

Next follows the vigorous up-down scraping of the inside walls of the cheeks, which gives the impression of a large, trapped insect trying to claw its way out from inside the mouth. Finally comes a complete brush down of the entire roof of the mouth. The first time you see this you cannot help wonder if the person is trying to hook the base of their brain so they can pull it out via the soft palate. 

Evidently none of the above are effective unless followed by a complete ensemble of deep throat gargling, three intense mouth-rinse cycles and finally hacking up phlem from the deepest, darkest reaches of the trachea. All of these are accompanied by their own personal combination of gutteral grunts, groans and roars which are normally only heard from moody Scots at Wimbledon.



Game, set and match