Storm in a tea cup

There is a widely held belief that you can tell much about a person or a nation from the way they handle themselves in a crisis.  

Great leaders of our time, and David Cameron.
The Prime Ministerial spectrum; from the 
original salad dodger to the risible porker porker

Wartime heroism is such a distant memory that the quote most often heard about crises these days is the cynical observation; 

"When the going gets tough, the tough get going". 

In the wake of Cameron's resignation after the Brexit referendum, political satirists joyfully updated this quip to; 

"When the going gets tough, the toff gets off".

This divisive issue continues to dangle British politics over a precipice. With Boris Johnson, Michael Gove and Jacob Rees-Mogg all jockeying for leadership positions, it is still too early to assume the next update will be; 

"When the toffs gets tough, May will stay".

Quotes about crises from people in the public eye range from the sage Dexter Morgan; 

"There's nothing like a crisis to define who you are". 

To the sublime Jeremy Corbyn, who evidently didn't see the current antisemitism storm brewing on the horizon when he shared his wistful thinking;

"I find if you are in an office, the crisis finds you. 
If you're not in the office, the crisis finds somebody else".

Either way, this summer it was the tropical typhoon which provided the barometer by which to measure how different countries respond to a looming weather crisis. 

Most people are aware of the annual monsoon which  gestates slowly before midsummer then unloads torrents of water shortly and sharply over much of India. However the wider geographical area, from North Australia through to China, experiences approx 27 large, heavy storms each year which form quickly, barrel in from the western Pacific Ocean every fortnight and then ping around the archipelagos of south east Asia at the whim of some atmospheric pinball wizard. 

Trajectories of 2018's western pacific typhoons to date

Thanks to weather satellites and cloud penetrating radar, the speed, strength and direction of these storms can be monitored and to some extent predicted. However reacting to the risks is still very much an individual national decision.

Of the average 27 storms, the smallest 10 are usually only of concern to international shipping. The remaining 17 develop into typhoons, most of which make landfall somewhere between the Philippines to the south west and Japan to the north east. While half of these simply deliver long, soggy days of unending rain, the other half form 'super typhoons' characterised by destructive winds and enough rain to cause severe flooding. 

Espana Boulevand, Manila 2014

In some places the rain is manageable; cities have sewers and canals to route water quickly to the river or sea. However deforested hill-sides in rural communities are at high risk as the rain saturates the topsoil, increasing its weight, while simultaneously lubricating the soil so it slides more easily. Unfortunate townsfolk buried under large mudslides are regular events. High winds generate powerful waves and uproot trees while broken overhead power lines have greatest impact, cutting off electricity and thereby also water and gas.


In 2016 South Korea's national weather service proudly hailed the installation of its new Cray weather-predicting Super Computer No4 (SC4). At US $54m it was staggeringly expensive, lightning fast, highly sophisticated, it was the bee's knees; the last word in weather analysis. It would make Korean weather sexy.

Cray supercomputer, a snip at US$ 54m

https://www.forbes.com/sites/alexknapp/2014/06/25/cray-signs-a-54-million-supercomputing-contract-with-south-korea/amp/

Ever critical and always hard to satisfy, it was not long before a dubious public started to comment on significant differences between the weather promised by SC4 and what they were actually receiving. It rapidly became something of a national hobby to check SC4's daily forecast and then watch for the correlation, in much the same way that people might check their daily horoscope and then look for evidence of its predictions as the day unfolded.

http://m.koreatimes.co.kr/pages/article.asp?newsIdx=212464

Criticism rapidly turned to scandal as every man, woman and dog eventually concluded that the forecasts spewed by the new computer were correct less than 50% of the time. This meant in practice, that if the forecast said no rain, then the chances were that you should take an umbrella with you.

A deeper analysis showed that forecasts were indeed more accurate before the new super-computer. What had gone wrong ? Who had ripped off the Met Office and pocketed a fortune ? Who had been duped by a lousy pile of circuitry dressed up with bells and whistles ? The public demanded answers.  Attempts were made to deflect criticism by blaming the extraction of data from the nation's weather satellite Chollian-1.

http://m.koreaherald.com/view.php?ud=20170822000749#cb 


Two years later, after all the outrage, the investigations, the exonerations and the excuses, the dust settled and the public turned their ire to more urgent matters; such as impeaching a president who had never even twittered a tweet. 

In August 2018 typhoon Soulik formed in the western Pacific, looming large and leaning heavily towards South Korea. The bells and whistles on SC4's super circuits warned of the worst typhoon since 2012; the wind speed measured in hundreds, injuries predicted in thousands and property damage expected in millions. Public events were canceled, people stockpiled food and water while others even dusted off the apocalypse survival kits they were gifted the previous summer at the height of Kim JongUn's 2017 attention-seeking, missile-launching, frenzied rite of passage.

Govt and employers even took the astonishing and previously unimaginable step of telling people to "work from home" (a new phrase never previously heard in Korea). This advice was totally unprocessable by most middle managers who still cannot conceive of people working dutifully if they are not in the direct line of sight of a 'superior'. Team leaders attempted to control their colleagues by scheduling as many online video conferences as possible to ensure their team members were awake, properly attired and actively engaged in their duties at home, not just kicking back in their slippers on the sofa with their kids in front of some K-drama. Most notable was the number of family men who ignored the typhoon warnings to brave it to the office. This time not for the usual reason of habitual presenteeism but rather the sly, unspoken truth that with the schools closed and the kids at home with the wife, an empty office offered the most peaceful environment to finish binge-watching on Netflix.

http://m.koreaherald.com/view.php?ud=20180823000573&ACE_SEARCH=1

http://m.koreaherald.com/view.php?ud=20180820000522&ACE_SEARCH=1

In the end typhoon Soulik came and went. The entire nation spent a whole day in total lock down anticipating events of biblical proportions. What happened in most places were simply long, tedious hours of drizzle. Somewhere on the south coast, which apparently took the brunt of the storm, damage rose into the high single digits as an old lady's umbrella blew inside out. Definitely it was the dampest of squibs.

http://m.koreaherald.com/view.php?ud=20180824000589&ACE_SEARCH=1

And the solution ?  Why, to buy a bigger supercomputer of course ! Supercomputer No 5 is already on order at a whopping US$56m to go !

http://m.koreatimes.co.kr/pages/article.asp?newsIdx=243468

Even so, Korea's newest and most expensive number cruncher yet will still rely on the same quality of data from the same satellite used today.

At the current rate the govt is spending anything upwards of US$50m on weather prediction supercomputers every 5 years, or US$10m per year, for predictions which are more often wrong than right.  Meanwhile old folks can make more reliable predictions by simply looking at the weather on the horizon in the direction that the wind is blowing in from and preparing for the same the next day.

Into Darkness - Extreme Exam Culture

"Beware the Ides of March" by all means but September is never a dull month in any country. In Germany it is the month of the Oktoberfest - nothing less than the holy grail of the calendar year for many. Of course these days the event has been successfully exported worldwide including to both North and South Korea.

Bavarian colours redesigned with military chic.
Capitalising on NK's very highly rated brewing skills, Kim JungUn gave his personal nod 
to a 20 day beer festival in 2016, which is now an annual event in Pyongyang.

https://www.i4u.com/2016/08/114354/north-korea-has-first-oktoberfest

Seoul's Grand Hilton Hotel Oktoberfest:
more lederhosen and fewer starched uniforms than our friends in the north

Meanwhile in the more romantic nations of Europe, September sees a slothful return to work following August's closure of schools, small businesses, consultants, etc, to enable the merchants and professionals to rekindle their passions somewhere secluded. 

Alas for most students in the northern hemisphere, September reluctantly heralds the start of the new academic year and in Korea, it is the final count down to Seunung, the College Scholastic Aptitude Test (CSAT) held each Thursday in the second week of November. This is an 8 hour long national marathon of a selection test in which approx 600,000 students compete for positions at university. The importance of this test is difficult to overstate because of the widely held (and largely self-perpetuating) belief that selection to the best university puts you above your peers socially and provides a roadmap to success for the rest of your entire life. To reinforce the gravity of the exam, police control traffic on the day to ensure everyone arrives at school on time, military exercises and civilian flights are postponed to reduce distractions, meanwhile stock markets, banks and govt offices open late to allow parents to burn the midnight oil with their kid the night before.

https://www.economist.com/banyan/2013/11/08/point-me-at-the-sky

Today more than ever, across the world and especially in South Korea (whose OECD ranking for graduation rates leaped from #34 to #1 in only 30 years) school and exams are a test of endurance rather than a test of intelligence or a useful foundation for a career. Students learn the facts and are then tested on how much they can remember. Likewise teachers teach-to-the-test; they coach the students on the type of questions they will be asked and the answers to reply with. This seduces some with the inviting short cut of learning only the questions and the respective model answers rather than learning the basic material. These students are quickly revealed when they leave the room 20 minutes into a 3 hour exam because the questions do not include the ones they learned. 

For the last 4 years South Korea has been #1 worldwide
for high school and college graduation rates.
This prompts the Whitehouse to ask what can the USA learn from  SK ?

https://www.weforum.org/agenda/2015/05/what-can-the-us-learn-from-south-koreas-education-system/

Defiance

In 2012 a UK teacher proudly confided that she would refuse to implement the govt exams for 6 year olds in her class. She explained that her students were too young to be stressed by exams and that school is for learning and fun. Furthermore it is unfair to assess anyone based on their performance in one particular hour. A listener noted that when they become adults, her class will be regularly assessed, accepted or rejected in much less than an hour, often in just a few seconds.  This will happen every time they walk into a meeting, attend a job interview or introduce themselves to a potential date at a party. As the saying goes; "You don't get a second chance to make a first impression", so why try to avoid the inevitable ?  Why not become good at it by regular practice ? 

May 2016: UK teachers, parents and children protesting against national exams for 6 year olds

The noble teacher might consider that in former times the Korean education system included exams for entrance to middle school and then again for entrance to high school.  Due to grueling pressure on the students, the middle school exam was abolished in 1971. However this simply increased the stakes riding on the high school exam.  Competition in the high school exam then became so feverishly fraught that it was replaced by a lottery system for allocating school places. Ultimately both of these 'fixes' combined to shift all the pressure further along the system making November's Seunung the single, defining, make-or-break, absolute cliff-hanger of a student's application to university. 

http://undergraduatelibrary.org/system/files/Schooling%20%26%20Culture%20-%20South%20Korean%20Education%20System.pdf

Real Life
At school I recall learning how to calculate the inclination of a cannon set at distance S so that a cannon ball fired with velocity V hit would hit the top of a castle keep at height H. I'd like to think that I could do the same calculation today, which would indeed be a fine test of memory. In real life it is astonishingly rare to be given such a well-defined problem to solve and if you are that lucky then computing the answer is rarely difficult. 

An age old maths problem; the ballistic trajectories of cannon balls
- until 2017 also used notoriously by Kim JungUn for launching ICMBs into the Pacific

Real life problems are poorly defined at best and often hidden at worst; they require analytical skills. The first is observation; recognising that there is a problem with a business unit, a production line or a project is a very subtle skill. The second is investigation; correctly identifying which factors contribute to the problem as opposed to other issues which have no influence. Observation and investigation simply define the problem. Then come the follow-up skills; finding options and choosing a solution. Even the best schools and the most hotly contested universities have been excruciatingly slow at coaching future generations in the analytical skills needed for real challenges. The DAX, NYSE & FTSE are littered with examples of businesses which collapsed because nobody recognised anything was wrong (eg: Lehman Bros) or because a company achieved technical supremacy and/or market share with a product for which there was no longer a demand (eg: Kodak). 

Koreans themselves are scratching their heads over this dilemma, noting that despite Korea's #1 ranking for graduates in the OECD, Korea has yet to win a single Nobel prize in sciences.  Commentators identify rote learning as a likely culprit for stifling creative thinking together with the parents' unbalanced obsession with the reputation of certain universities rather than the subject their child will actually study. 

https://www.koreatimes.co.kr/www/nation/2018/09/181_254202.html

http://www.theasian.asia/archives/99165

Returning to the example of the cannon; relevant questions to ask before lighting the gunpowder might include; what makes an artillery attack preferable to undermining the walls, starving out the defenders or better still, confusing the incumbents by rocking up in a huge wooden horse ? Also, are non-adversarial strategies feasible such as starting rebellion among the defenders, converting them into allies or subverting the loyalty of an under-appreciated gatekeeper by offering him a quiet farmhouse with a few sheep tended by a Nordic shepherdess ?

Nordic shepherdess : offers a discrete alternative to military bombardment 

The analytical skills needed to detect and define problems then assess feasible solutions are hard to teach, harder to test and even harder to evaluate objectively. Therefore the education system blithely stumbles on, testing what students can remember; not because this constitutes a good education but simply because exams are easy to operate and everyone receives a standardised  little score for easy comparison.  

Work life
Analytical skills are similarly hard to teach, test and evaluate in a working environment. But rather than admit to the fallacy of annual performance reviews, HR gurus continue to ply their trade by annually launching the latest reincarnation of their review process which is invariably tweaked, overhauled or rebooted to include some enlightening mantra 'pinched with pride' from some uncredited business class in-flight magazine.

It is no surprise that many major corporations shed the yolk of performance reviews as they stepped into the 21st century, starting with tech companies like Dell, Microsoft and IBM but then joined by consultants such as Deloitte, PWC and Accenture, then industries such as GAP, Lear and General Electric.

https://hbr.org/2016/10/the-performance-management-revolution


https://www.mckinsey.com/business-functions/organization/our-insights/ahead-of-the-curve-the-future-of-performance-management

https://qz.com/428813/ge-performance-review-strategy-shift/


Sadly Korean chaebols are generally operated like military units with decisions made by Human Resources rather than managers. Here the annual performance review is essentially abused since the manager is unable to freely score individuals according to merit. Instead the HR dept. proscribes the spread of people who can be scored high (salary rise), middle (no change) or low (salary decrease). The manager must simply decide which to assign to who, even if all the team have done well and nobody merits a poor score - see previous post

Enlightenment
The most important casualty of an exam-fevered education is the joy of discovery - which is ironically the most powerful incentive to study. Students today memorise that the planets orbit the sun, the circumference of the earth is 40,000 km or that the swing of a pendulum is proportional to the square of its length. Today these are given as dry, unremarkable truths, delivered without context of the significance of the discoveries or how they changed the world. Nothing is taught about the curiosity, passion and egos which drove people to discover these truths, the primitive methods used to make the measurements, the wrong theories which were abandoned before the right theory was realised, the personal, religious and political fallout surrounding the discoveries. A student's enlightenment comes from learning how a discovery was made, who believed it, why it was challenged, who ignored it, as much as from the actual conclusion itself. 

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eratosthenes

Once education is made devoid of enlightenment, reduced to examinable facts which are dull and unmotivating, clearly students will begrudge the best years of their lives being smothered by the inexorable darkness of extreme exam culture. 

1979: Pink Floyd's The Wall; an early warning of darker times ahead

The Bottom Line
Putting educational philosophies and student motivation aside, the bottom line is that the business of education is business, not education.  In South Korea education is a huge opportunity to squeeze everything that parents can afford in exchange for even the most marginal perceived advantage for their children.  Like the market for new smart phones, the market for educational services needs no advertising, no sales pitch, no marketing.  Parents actively seek out each and every conceivable opportunity to upgrade their child's study experience.  

The prize is simple; a place at one of the nation's 3 elite 'SKY' universities; Seoul National Uni., Korea Uni, and Yonsei Uni. These accept the top 2% of students which sometimes leaves the student feeling a little more entitled than his less fortunate peers.

https://www.quora.com/How-does-South-Koreas-education-system-affect-students

Competition for SKY and other high-rated unis used to start in primary school with parents spending on average 20% of household income on private evening crammers (hagwon).  

https://theconversation.com/south-korean-education-ranks-high-but-its-the-kids-who-pay-34430

https://www.telegraph.co.uk/education/10491289/OECD-education-report-Koreas-school-system-a-pressure-cooker-for-children.html

Hagwons routinely teach until 9pm, often later, leaving children so tired that teachers perversely have to allow them to sleep the next day during regular school class.

Today the battle ground has shifted to kindergarten, specifically English language kindergartens which are perceived to be the latest way to nudge your child ahead.  On average places cost an astonishing US$ 900 per month but demand is so high that there are already more than 250 English language kindergartens in Seoul - the most expensive of which cost US$ 2,000 per month.

http://m.koreaherald.com/view.php?ud=20180724000470#cb


Ultimately money secures academic excellence with which to further leverage social standing.  To highjack Netflix's flawless adaptation of Richard Morgan's 2002 dystopian vision of our near future;

"Those with eternal wealth have 

eternal power over those who don't."

The Impersonal Touch

Some things are glaringly obvious but this still does not prevent them being overlooked entirely. For example; consider the argument between Darwin, Weissman and Lamarck in the late 1800s. Lamarck proposed that animals adapted to their environment during their lifetimes (eg: giraffes grew longer necks to reach higher branches) and passed on these adaptations to their offspring. Weissman disagreed vehemently and set about proving this by snipping the tails off 20 successive generations of lab mice to show that no tailless mice would produce any tailless offspring. Upon learning of this 'extreme proof', one sage observer noted that those of the Jewish persuasion had been discretely snipping bits off their men for millennia but had still failed to produce a single male who was born without the offending item; therefore why put 20 generations of mice through such unnecessary grief ? This was glaringly obvious but overlooked entirely - with no apologies to Weissman's poor mice. 

Weissman: - not a good day for mice, or Lamarck

John Betjeman's 'Inexpensive Progress' lamented the inexorable power of retailers as they erased the individual character of our main streets with the same impersonal, bleak facades found in every other anonymised town;

"Let no provincial High Street 

Which might be your or my street 

Look as it used to do, 

But let the chain stores place here 

Miles of black glass facia 

And traffic thunder through"

Half a century later we have come to expect a full suite of chain stores in any town centre where we stop for our retail therapy. Starbucks, KFC and Haagen Daz make no attempt to hide their fixes of modern junk food, even in the former opium dens of Shanghai, for example. 

Not a good blend: Starbucks subtly standing out in the crowd in the Old City of Shanghai

KFC: the crowning addition to 600 years of history and culture, Old City of Shanghai 

South Korea is no exception with every hub of every suburb offering the same predictable names in supermarkets, sportswear, clothing, beauty products, restaurants, coffee shops, bakeries, fast food, etc, etc. The notable difference in Korea is the tendency for near-identical outlets to cluster right next to each other, often literally door-to-door. Most foreigners will raise an eyebrow of improbability when spotting their first collection of Starbucks, Ediya Coffee, Coffee Bronzz shops all in a row. 

Seoul: coffee shops all in a row

This will be quickly followed by a dropped jaw of incredulity upon spotting four beauty retailers door-to-door such as Innisfree, Etude House, MissHa & Nature Republic. There are too many examples to mention and even the banks can be found in similar clusters.


Initial thinking might suggest that a new beauty shop would be most successful if located as far away as possible from other beauty shops, thereby securing a 'captive audience' who have few other options in the area. By this reasoning, opening a new beauty shop next to established beauty shops would likely split the available customers to the point where all shops become unprofitable. However, the success of these clusters shows that once the first shop confirms demand in an area, then additional similar shops draw more customers by widening the choice. It is simply the time-honoured concept of the ancient gold souks applied to retailing in general; glaringly obvious - unless you missed it.


Food and drink emporia have the added bonus that Koreans are meticulously punctual about eating lunch at noon, often as quickly as possible so they can nap from 12:15 onwards. This creates a daily tidal wave of ravenous customers who will readily revert to a neighbouring eatery if their first preference is full. In this way many restaurants survive as overflows to a popular 'main attraction'. Oddly, and perhaps more obscurely, the same clustering is even seen amongst high street banks.

Since the introduction of ATMs and online banking most countries have seen a steady decline in the number of high street branches, however in Korea you can still find at least 5 of the nation's 10 principal domestic banks on every second city block. Stepping inside the larger branches is like walking into a business class lounge at the airport. With the obvious exception of the doorman, the staff are all young, female, wearing identical short, tight uniforms, expertly primped, meticulously rendered with skin-whitening masks and feigning the proscribed amount of allure. The first time you see this you can't help anticipating Robert Palmer stepping out from behind a pillar for an impromptu re-shoot of his iconic 'Addicted To Love'.

Korean banking; verging towards the Palmeresque

https://youtu.be/XcATvu5f9vE

In busy periods there can be 20 such female staff, each sitting upright and attentive behind a desk without bullet-proof glass, emergency shutters, microphones or speakers. It is undeniably plush and civilised. Just take the weight off your feet, recline in a deep, leather sofa and scan the news headlines until your number appears. Only when called to your allotted desk, do you start to notice the first subtle glitches in the matrix of ultra-high-tech, 24/7, banking-at-the-speed-of-light which has been constructed around you.

Immerse yourself in the Korean banking matrix

If you make the mistake of presenting your passbook (yup, that A6 sized, stiff-covered post-war relic) to the teller, she will insert it into the printer to add every single transaction since your last visit. If this was 3 months ago, that's anything up to 2 or 3 passbooks to fill; each page lovingly opened and smoothed by manicured, moisturised hands before the book is tenderly reinserted into the printer again and again and again. You start to understand why the staff look so vibrant; they need to hold your attention so you do not lapse into a coma before the printing is finished ! For (female) customers who do not wish to be willfully or woefully mesmerised by near-identical clones as part of their favourite banking fantasy it may be worth noting that Citibank at least allows its staff the personal freedom to dress, coif and use cosmetics as they wish.

Citibank Korea - professional service without Palmer-ette mannequins

When it comes to the banking service you require, there are always at least 5 forms to be completed; your form requesting their service, their form offering you their service, your acceptance of the service they offer, your indemnifying them for any consequence of providing their service, your agreement to them sharing your data about your use of their service and so on. Applications for cheque or credit cards typically run to 15 pieces of countersigned paper, ostensibly justified by the security necessary for the issue of such cards. However once in your possession, a father can give the cards to his early-teen daughter who can use them in the shops all day, entirely unchallenged, irrespective of what she buys, or the fact that she is the wrong sex to be the card holder and obviously not old enough to legally accountable for a line of credit. Once again the explanation is glaringly obvious; bank card security is totally ignored by every retailer so the banks protect themselves by placing all risk with the cardholder. "Simples, innit ?"


Transferring money out of Korea is obsessively controlled; even if you have accounts at several banks, only one bank is allowed to transfer your money internationally. The default transfer limit is US$ 50k per year unless you can show documents certified by your employer, registered by the tax dept and Apostled by God (sorry) to prove your salary is greater than this. Regardless of the income your paperwork can substantiate, once the sum of remittances abroad, foreign cash withdrawals and overseas purchases exceed US$50K, your bank cards are automatically deactivated (without warning) for any further foreign transactions. This leaves international travellers suddenly unable to settle their hotel bill or even worse, making them blush much more than anticipated when it's time to pay for their 'Happy Ending Intimate Massage'. Calls to the bank are totally futile; some pert, polite, Palmer-esque subroutine constructed by the banking matrix advises you to open a new bank account in the country you are marooned in, then to make an international remittance from Korea into that account. They dispense this advice with a straight voice in the full knowledge that the preconditions for opening an account in any country, include formally establishing residency, because this is also required in Korea. The glaringly obvious answer is not to travel anywhere with cards from a Korean bank - you never know how they will sabotage your trip while you are away.


With such tiresome inefficiencies built into every operation, one wonders how so many banks have survived and how so many branches remain open into the 21st century. Firstly; although all banks offer an online service, these require pre-installation of a whole suite of unique security programs before each logon. Added to this, much security software is still based on obsolete Active X protocols while many sites are incompatible with newer versions of Windows, Internet Explorer or alternative browsers. Nine times in 10 you can still walk across to your local branch, queue and be served by a Palmerette faster than submitting yourself to this online masochism for a couple of hours in the privacy of your own home.


http://m.koreaherald.com/view.php?ud=20170710000897&ntn=0


Secondly, joint accounts are not allowed in Korea, not even for married couples. Each person has an individual tax identity and therefore bank accounts in their own name only. Thirdly, married men are often obliged to hand over day-to-day control of their accounts to their wives after marriage as a sign of fidelity, so naturally they quietly open additional accounts on the sly for 'incidental expenses'. The wife is happy to have visibility of her hubby's salary paid into the account she controls but remains oblivious to his business expenses which his employer reimburses into his clandestine account. These two shenanigans probably explain why each family opens more accounts than truly needed. However the main contributing factor to the enduring presence of banks on the high street is surely the vast amount of personal banking generated by the housing rental system.


https://www.economist.com/finance-and-economics/2014/02/15/lumping-it

https://qz.com/183412/koreas-crazy-system-for-renting-apartments-is-driving-the-country-deeper-into-debt/


Korea's 'Jeonse' or 'Key Money' system for renting property is said to be unique in the world. Instead of paying any rent, the tenant gives the owner key money, typically a whopping 50% - 80% of the market value of the property, for a rental period of 2 years. Considering that a one-bedroom apartment in or around Gangnam now sells for ~ US$ 1m, key money of the order of US$ 800k is quite feasible. The owner invests the key money, keeps the profits, then returns the key money to the tenant intact at the end of 2 years without any share of the profit. In former times, when risk-free investments gave relatively healthy returns and when property prices rose steadily, key money worked well. For property owners the key money was effectively a large, interest-free loan to invest and reap a handsome reward. However in the last decade, as returns on safe investments reduced and property market values became more volatile, owners struggle to make decent returns on the key money and sometimes become unable to repay it in full. For these reasons the key money system is gradually giving way to much lower deposits, supplemented by some amount of monthly rent.


Of course most tenants do not hold 80% of the market value of even an average property, so they borrow all or part of this at a modest 2% - 4% interest. In this way the rental system ensures a steady stream of custom for the banks. The banks also have a role in securing key money held by the owner until it is redeemed at the end of the rental. Defaulting owners may forfeit the property to the tenant but this may not cover the key money if property values drop significantly. The system has been likened to taking a short on the property value 2 years ahead. Foreigners write reams on the oddities of the key money system however, quite apart from the foibles of the concept itself, it undoubtedly keeps the banks busy moving huge amounts of money between the pockets of their millions of customers. No doubt this pays for all the plush leather sofas and attentive Palmerettes in branches on every other block.


And finally; let's not forget the most subtle beauty of the rental system; not only does the key money concept keep the banks busy, it has the added benefit of minimising the financial relationship between the tenant and the owner. Although a rental agreement exists between the two parties, the financial relationships, obligations and recourse of each party are primarily with their banks, not with each other, which helps to keep everything as impersonal as possible: just the way we like it !

I Came, I Saw, I Lunched (Bigly)

A radio guest once explained to a DJ, why he was lucky not to be late for their live interview. The guest used the underground to avoid traffic delays and indeed the trip began well. The guest exited his subway car not only at the correct station but also comfortably ahead of schedule. However on leaving the platform he looked up to see a sign which stated 'Dogs MUST be carried on escalator'. The guest then described his frantic panic as he searched high and low through the teeming flow of passengers for more than 40 minutes trying to find a dog somewhere in the crowd. When he was finally successful the guest then needed another 20 minutes to convince the dog's owner to briefly lend him the mutt so he could ride the escalator up out of the station. This anecjoke™© was obviously a mischievous farce but the point was clear enough; sometimes the key issue is not the message itself but how the message is presented and understood. 

Since 1953, Kim Il-Sung, Kim Jong-Il and Kim Jong-Un have, in succession, ruthlessly enforced and desperately clung to ideologies which China slowly relaxed back in 1978 and which the Soviet Union dropped like a hot potato in 1989.  Unfortunately for North Korea's long-suffering citizens, the Kim dynasty fails to realise that Stalinist personality cults are simply not like flared pants, which you can obstinately cling onto for three decades until they finally come back into fashion.  

Vitaly Mansky's critically acclaimed documentary "Under The Sun" portrays an 8 year old schoolgirl named Zinmi preparing to join the NK Children's Union.  Zinmi's class is taught how Kim Il-Sung defeated the US forces of evil by crushing them under a huge boulder. The same evil US forces are, even now, preparing to kill Zinmi's parents as they sleep in their beds if they let their guard down for just an instant. The only hope for Zinmi's family to live a long, happy, secure life together is under the protection of Super Supreme Leader Kim Jong-Un.  

https://www.washingtonpost.com/world/asia_pacific/for-north-koreas-kims-its-never-too-soon-to-start-brainwashing/2015/01/15/a23871c6-9a67-11e4-86a3-1b56f64925f6_story.html?utm_term=.37a3c5283dcc   

https://www.theguardian.com/world/2015/dec/21/life-in-north-korea-the-early-years

After 65 years of such relentless indoctrination, news of Kim's June meeting with Mr T in Singapore required a very careful spin to ensure the correct understanding by Kim's subjects back home. Kim's earlier meetings with South Korea's Moon Jae-In and China's Xi Jin-Ping were only reported in NK after the meetings were successfully completed and all the video footage had been edited to maximise its propaganda value.  By contrast the meeting with Mr T was heralded in advance during prime time, to show Kim's elevation to top tier international statesman, confidently buoyed by his much-vaunted nuclear deterrent, which he would use to negotiate from a position of strength. Certainly there was no mention of impending new rounds of punishing international sanctions against NK or a three line whip issued by the Giant Panda next door to "...play nicely or else".   

Risky Business : a tricky first date

After a somewhat hairy 2017 characterised by disappointing elections and escalating military tension around the globe, diffusing tension in Korea actually offers several presidents the chance to finally deliver what we expect from heads of state engaging maturely in global politics in the 21st century. 

South Korea's Pres. Moon
From his inauguration in May 2017, SK's President Moon Jae-In personally redefined the expression 'to hit the ground running', working urgently to shrug off decades of ingrained government cynicism and antipathy towards North Korea. Despite fierce criticism from the conservative right, including accusations of reckless foolishness, being a NK stooge and upsetting US sentiment, Moon re-opened dialogue with NK's Super Supreme Leader Kim Jung-Un in May 2017 when NK missile launches had reached an alarming 3 per month.  After this rapprochement , launches reduced to 2 per month until August and then only one each in September and November - although the last of these confirmed the potential to reach the continental US.  

By January 2018, the Koreas re-established a long-abandoned hotline for direct communication and SK secured US agreement to postpone the regular 'Foal Eagle' combined forces military drills which NK (rightly or wrongly) interprets as preparations for an invasion.

http://time.com/5088363/the-u-s-just-canceled-war-drills-off-the-korean-peninsula-during-the-olympics/

By February 2018 NK had not only accepted an invitation to participate in SK's upcoming Winter Olympic Games but Kim JongUn's highly photogenic younger sister Kim Yo-Jong attended as a high-level emissary, becoming the first member of the Kim dynasty to visit SK since the cease fire was brokered in 1953.

Kim Yo-Jong and Moon Jae-In at the PyeongChang Winter Olympics

"U.S. Vice President Mike Pence ... who seemed to go out of [his] way to not acknowledge the North Koreans despite sitting just few feet (meters) away"
https://indianexpress.com/article/sports/sport-others/winter-olympics-kim-jong-un-sister-north-south-korea-5060537/

Through all of this Pres. Moon had to delicately spin the news of his progress via SK's respectfully dubious media to its vociferously skeptical audience.  It is a fine balance; on the one hand to lead people one small step at a time so as not to make them nervous but on the other hand, asking them to consider the much bigger picture; the prize of a meaningful peace. 

China's Pres. Xi
Meanwhile many political observers spent 2017 watching NK missile launches and underground nuclear tests, scratching their heads, wondering why China was not using its undoubted influence to rein in NK's bellicose and increasingly daring Kim Kong.

Frustrated criticism came thick and fast reminding China of its responsibility to show a united front with the global community.

Things eventually became clear in Feb 2018 when China unsportingly announced an end to presidential term limits. Behind closed doors the National People's Congress had been quietly voting for (ironically) less frequent Presidential elections and then deciding how this should be spun to ensure it was correctly understood at home and abroad.

https://www.scmp.com/news/china/policies-politics/article/2136740/china-ends-presidential-term-limits-what-other-changes

With its own house in order, Pres. Xi JinPing then wasted no time summoning Kim Jong-Un to Bejing for three days to explain that re-ignition of the Korean war was not how China wants to begin NEoX; the New Era of Xi. It was now high time for young Kim to put his missiles away and get along with his neighbours - or to face Panda Rage on the world stage.

Much less discussed is SK's deployment of THAAD, the US' Terminal High Altitude Area Defense system; essentially a powerful radar imager which detects ballistic missile launches, extrapolates their trajectory and then fires interceptor missiles to knock them out in flight.  China objects to THAAD being stationed in SK, arguing it can spy directly on China's own military operations.  China's first response was to put SK in the dog house for deploying the system, unofficially boycotting SK products, businesses and celebrities within China and halving the usual 8m Chinese tourists from visiting SK . 


http://www.koreaherald.com/view.php?ud=20180626000649&ACE_SEARCH=1

As painful and expensive as this was, SK actively encouraged tourism from other nations in an attempt to ride out the storm until Nov 2017 when China lifted these restrictions in exchange for SK promises not to develop THAAD any further.

https://www.scmp.com/week-asia/geopolitics/article/2120452/china-wins-its-war-against-south-koreas-us-thaad-missile

https://thediplomat.com/2018/04/is-the-us-south-korea-alliance-in-trouble/

The US and Mr T
The US Republican Party and SK's Pres. Moon recently suggested that Mr T be nominated for the Nobel Peace Prize for his role in the warming of relations with NK.  Naturally many object but we can all agree that even if Mr T does not deserve the prize the most, he would certainly enjoy it the most and he would definitely milk it the most.

If nothing else, Mr T is an actor, quite possibly an exquisite, sublime, Oscar-worthy actor.  However disappointing his administration may be, in the matter of North Korea, Mr T has played the role of President very well, perhaps even reassuringly responsibly, so far. Admittedly the world gasped at the immaturity of his opening lines; school-playground name-calling such as "I would never call him 'short' and 'fat' " and "Little Rocket Man".  But oh-how-much we relished NK's lofty, scholarly retort of "Dotard". Never was a spat squashed so quickly and so decisively.

Next Mr T had us on the edge of our seats promising to send the aircraft carrier USS Carl Vinson to the region to 'show resolve' while simultaneously initiating drills to evacuate all US personnel from the Korean peninsular. Evidently Mr T had learned that he too can fake the news; with this sly bluff he misdirected the world's attention with chest-beating puffery while the USS Carl Vinson quietly continued to San Diego as planned. Finally as Mr T's speech-writer brought us to an incendiary climax with threats of "fire and fury, the likes of which the world has never seen", Mr T personally improvised with a return to the playground; "My nuclear button is bigger than yours - and it works !".

Through all of this Mr T is to be congratulated for playing out his John Wayne/Gary Cooper/James Stewart alter ego without actually attempting a military solution.  Like previous presidents he seems to have listened to strategists' advice which concludes there is no military solution in which Seoul can be saved.

https://www.google.co.kr/amp/www.military.com/daily-news/2017/06/22/defense-officials-warn-of-seouls-destruction-war-north-korea.html%3fvariant=mobile.amp

After all Seoul city includes 25m people living only 30 miles from the DMZ. This distance can be covered in 30 minutes by tanks at full speed or  less than 3 minutes for the slowest regular rockets. In the event of hostilities, even the most modern technology could not prevent large parts of Seoul being levelled in hours - and with it ~230,000 US troops and english teachers. Not something for a president to blemish his CV with unnecessarily.

http://time.com/4751933/south-korea-evacuation-exercise-military/

As the 12 June Kim-Trump summit in Singapore approached, most media tried to show Mr T as inexperienced and ill-prepared. How much did he know about the history of the Korean war, about NK's military, did he think he could sign a peace treaty, how would he know if Kim could be trusted, how much time would Mr T need to assess Kim ? Mr T batted back the questions with the measured contempt they deserved; they were designed to trip him up and garner ignorant, arrogant or otherwise embarrassing sound-bites at a time when he needed to remain calm, focused and to stay within his remit. 


Ultimately Mr T did exactly what was required of a president; he flew in, shook hands, had lunch, signed some papers, showed off his limo and flew back - in time for his birthday 2 days later. Rocket launches have been postponed in return for military exercises put on hold. Against expectations, in a very difficult situation, as the world held its breath, Mr T delivered, presidentially.

https://www.military.com/daily-news/2018/06/25/trump-kim-summit-assessment.html

It is still far from clear if Kim Jong-Un is sincere about resetting NK's relationship with the rest of the world. This and any steps towards a peace on the peninsular would require a lot of hard work over a long time by many dedicated specialists. However all sides are now talking at senior levels and with a regularity not seen in decades. Unless and until it fails, 12 June 2018 may be one of the first real Apollo 11 moments of the new millennium; one small step for man, one giant leap for mankind. One thing is already certain; Mr T may survive a term or two, but inevitably he will be a note in the margin. Meanwhile, NEoX, the New Era of Xi, is already firmly established and well underway. 

A hard act to follow: the constitution of China now updated to include 'Xi JinPing Thought'

Out and About in Cambodia - Angkor Wat

There is no denying that city life is stressful, perhaps too stressful and a modern megacity like Seoul is no exception. However where people have problems, others have solutions, so Seoul offers the usual range of distractions; from cinema to saunas via karaoke and baseball. 

(1986) Crocodile Dundee's innocent misunderstanding about life in the city:
"Imagine seven million people all wanting to live together. 
Yeah, New York must be the friendliest place on earth"

And if a distraction is not enough, Seoul also offers various forms of stress relief. For old birds, traditional relief includes the time-honoured 'personal massage' but for spring chickens, options now include dedicated 'Rage Rooms', rented for half an hour, in which you and your friends can throw a completely lunatic fit of unbridled vandalism. Armed with hammers, golf clubs and baseball bats you can smash inanimate objects into the smallest pieces and entirely wreck all the furniture you can trample on until you have worked all the stress out of your system.

http://m.koreatimes.co.kr/phone/news/view.jsp?req_newsidx=241268

Needless to say if you are an impatient, feisty female whose daddy or hubby owns a national conglomerate, then you can simply treat the workplace as your own personal Rage Room and vent your anger directly on the employees; abuse them like inanimate objects and then spend a fortune on lawyers to cover it all up with gagging orders. 

https://www.theguardian.com/world/2018/apr/16/korean-air-suspends-executive-over-violent-outburst-meeting-nut-rage-daughter-airline-chairman

http://english.chosun.com/site/data/html_dir/2018/05/10/2018051001521.html

http://www.koreatimes.co.kr/www/nation/2018/05/251_249529.html

When you are too busy to even prepare an instant noodle, it is worth remembering that any quantity of food or snacks, from a three-course meal to a single bottle of Yakult can be delivered to your home or work at any hour of the day or night to help you maintain focus. If you have already lost focus due to too much alcoholic stress relief, then you can simply dial up a driver to drag you out from under the table of your favourite karaoke bar and drive you home in your own car - assuming you can remember where your car is and where your home is, which is not always as easy as it sounds. 

When the time finally comes to leave behind the stress of the city for somewhere blissful and timeless, it is reassuring to know that you can fly to Cambodia's ancient temple complex at Angkor in just five and a half hours without any risk of 'nut rage' because, mercifully, the route is not covered by Korean Air.

Cambodia
Cambodia looks west onto the Gulf of Thailand, nestled between Thailand, Laos and Vietnam.  Although its economy based on agriculture and textiles currently struggles to support a modest population of 15 million, the country has enjoyed a much more glorious past. From 800 to 1400 AD Cambodia was the seat of the Khmer Empire, based at Angkor on the northern shore of the near-central great Tonle Sap lake. 

Stress free: Cambodia's Great Lake Tonle Sap

The City of Angkor
By sometime in the 12th century the Khmer empire had become the largest in Southeast Asia, with the city of Angkor becoming the world's largest city prior to the Industrial Revolution; larger than modern day Paris and comprising more stone than the combined structures of ancient Egypt. The earliest temples built in the area were Hindu but these gradually  gave way to Buddhist designs as the new religion swept the empire.  Today approx 70 major stone structures are concentrated in an area 24km by 8km, with hundreds of minor structures beyond. Modern survey techniques estimate the city covered between 1,000 and 3,000 square km, possibly making it as large as modern day Washington.

By the 1400s the Khmer Empire was already in decline and although the city of Angkor was sacked in 1431, the temple of Angkor Wat itself continued as an active Buddhist shrine.  Many surrounding temples were abandoned and virtually all were starting to be neglected by the 1500s but even these were visited by the occasional French missionary or Portugese monk as they attempted to enlighten the locals with the latest Christian rapture. 

Credit for promoting Angkor's wonders to the western world officially falls to French naturalist Henri Mouhot, sponsored by the Royal Geographical Society.  Mouhot made a long expedition to the area in 1860, writing breathless journals on what he found there shortly before prematurely expiring from a bout of malaria just a year later. Mouhot claimed the ruins exceeded those of ancient Greece and Rome effusing;

"At Ongcor, there are ...ruins of such grandeur... that, at the first view, one is filled with profound admiration, and cannot but ask what has become of this powerful race, so civilized, so enlightened, the authors of these gigantic works?"

Angkor Wat by Henri Mouhot in 1860: still an active temple but with few visitors 

Mouhot's journals stimulated sufficient interest for other European notables to start adding the Angkor temple complex to their itinerary.  In 1865, five years after Mouhot's death, Anna Leonowens (popularly recognised as 'Anna and the King' [of Siam]) also visited, although her impressions were never widely published.  Only at the end of the 1800s, following the visit of two eminent French archaeologists, was sufficient finance secured to begin the methodical, ongoing task of clearing the jungle, fixing drainage and restoring structural damage.


The Temple of Angkor Wat
Today the temple of Angkor Wat is claimed to be the largest religious structure in the world, set on a vast moated island accessed over a causeway the length of London's Tower Bridge.

Constructed from 1113-1150, its pyramid style features higher structures in the centre.
Current day forest has replaced the original wooded structures of the city around the temple

Angkor Wat temple; built as a mausoleum, 
designed to reflect Hindu cosmology, later transformed  to Buddhism

Endless lofty sandstone cloisters funnel breezes and provide shade from the afternoon sun

The top and centre of the temple, representing heaven, where quiet reflection is still possible

After almost a millennium, technology now encroaches, not the jungle

The Temple of Ta Prohm
Ta Prohm is an example of a flat, Buddhist temple abandoned for centuries.  Restoration efforts have been deliberately minimal to preserve the harmony between the jungle and the structures. 

Angelina Jolie's Lara Croft at Ta Prohm temple in Tomb Raider (2001),
the first Hollywood movie filmed in Cambodia since Peter O'Toole's 'Lord Jim' in 1965.

Ta Prohm temple; worship in a magnificent natural setting

Ta Prohm temple; difficult to see where the temple ends and the jungle begins

The Temple of Baphuon at Angkor Thom
An example of a pyramid style, Hindu temple, later converted to Buddhist and subsequently neglected requiring extensive demolition, new foundations and reconstruction stone by stone.

Bauphon temple; dizzying size and scale

The Terrace of the Elephants; wall detail showing elephants and riders

The Temple of Bayon at Angkor Thom
The last temple to be built at Angkor, also in the pyramid style, originally a Buddhist temple, converted to Hindu, reverted to Buddhist and finally abandoned to the jungle for centuries.

The shade of the ruins provides relief from the afternoon heat

A total of 216 stone faces look down from the towers with serenity at people passing by

 

Siem Reap
The previously unknown nearby village of Siem Reap mushroomed quickly from the global interest in Angkor such that it now serves the needs of tourists coming from far and wide to while away the hours, unwind under the trees and wander through the temple ruins at their own leisure.

Although most visitors only stay for a few days or perhaps a week at most, the ancient city of Angkor offers enough temple ruins to keep a person busy for months.  That's even without digressing to the mangroves of the great Tonle Sap lake, river cruises or other tourist attractions.  Whichever brand of spiritualism you succumb to there is a tangible feeling of peace and tranquility to be absorbed from these ruins which is curiously not present when ambling around other hallowed loci such as the Vatican, the Temple of  Karnak, Bangkok's Temple of the Emerald Buddha, Ephesus' House of the Virgin Mary, Turkey's Mount Nemrut or the Hagia Sophia.  Whether this is due to the natural jungle setting or the magnificent size, scale and geometry of the structures, the colours of the rock, the intense hue of the sunlight or the play of the shadows is impossible to say.  The overall impression that one takes away from the place is one of quiet, contented, calm, confidence, energy and optimism.  The ideal place to get away from it all.